Frankfurter Allgemeine Sunday newspaper

Stuart Pigott:
“This is how it becomes a cult wine”

People often talk about “cult wines”, but what does that mean? Probably the most obvious feature is that a cult wine is by no means cheap and easily available, i.e. it is not available on the supermarket shelf for 4.99 euros. If you ever find a cult wine on a shelf like this, it will be priced several notches higher and distance itself from its non-cult colleagues. However, if it is actually not expensive, then the demand is far greater than the production quantity, and for this reason it is rare.

A wine that has just entered the cult category, “REIMITZ” from Tuscany, shows how this works. Klaus Reimitz worked as an oenologist at the Montevertine estate near Radda in the Chianti region for over twenty years. During this time, the estate's top red wine “Le Pergole Torte” developed into a real cult wine. He caused some critics to become enthusiastic. But after the first acclaimed vintages, it had all but emancipated itself from critical praise and was instead carried forward by a deep-seated enthusiasm among consumers - a characteristic that is indispensable for cult wine candidates.

As things progressed, there were disagreements with the owners of Montevertine and Reimitz left the company. With the help of some old friends, he tackled a new project. He discovered a first-class vineyard planted exclusively with Sangiovese, the leading grape variety in Tuscany, and produced his first own wine in 2011. Of course, the reputation of “Le Pergole Torte” helps him, and there is a lot of interest in his new wine. But a new wine with a confident price does not mean it is a cult wine. No, it has to have a special taste - which is the case with the 2011 “REIMITZ”. Sangiovese red wines can appear quite acidic and are characterized by bitter tannins; This is often covered up by blending with smoother wines made from other grape varieties and a vanilla tone.

There can be no question of this with the 2011 “REIMITZ”. Instead, it impresses with a bright sour cherry note and a hint of pomegranate, and at the same time appears powerful, silky and delicate. The wine, which still has a very youthful appearance, can almost certainly be said to have great shelf life; another essential requirement for a cult wine.

And what about availability? In direct purchase it is only available as a “lot”; Each lot consists of 24 single bottles, 6 magnums (1.5 liters) and 1 double magnum (3 liters) per vintage. This may be manageable for retailers and restaurateurs, but it is steep for normal wine drinkers, also in terms of price. (Inquiry at info@reimitzwine.com ).

It is to be expected that some raffle buyers will resell their bottles. If the “REIMITZ” is offered at a higher price than directly from the producer, it is well on its way to becoming a cult wine.

February 16, 2014